Random: the safe title for anything

So with the inspiration of my new house mate faithfully updating her blog I felt the sudden inspiration to do the same. I realize of course that a bullet form summary of the last month will not suffice, so here goes, the update of Lan in Nam happy at the almost half a year mark.

I try to think of how not to be cliché when thinking about time and how it flies. Trying to avoid at all costs saying something really lame like “ I can not believe it has almost been half a year bla la la, it feels like yesterday I started teaching yadda yadda”. No surely I’m a bit more skilled than that…. Alas… It really is crazy though that I have almost been here for half a year, knowing that in the wink of an eye I might be writing about being here a year and even then some.

So here with the headlines:

“Girl moves from adequate boring studio to mansion”

“Is 25 the new 16? Quarter of century hang ups”

“Motorbikes in Hanoi: how to overcome your fear and laugh in the face of danger”

“Life? What’s that all about”

So the new house. The Joburgers will understand when I say this, I felt like I moved from a Weltevredenpark hole into a stunning Greenside villa. Well that is what it feels like anyway. When I first saw the house, I felt like a little girl excited about the latest Barbie doll. It is simply lovely.

We share a 5 floor, 4 bedroom, 3 bathroom, 2 rooftops and one flat screen tv. Sharing with a two other teachers, who happen to ad to my joy of international contacts (French and Australian) and whole also happen to be married. It is great to have some movement in my house again, living by myself was good for a while but I prefer this.

Of course, a new place to stay is the perfect excuse for a party, n dat-nat-maak soos ek dit noem (wel ek en al die ander boere). This joyous occasion conveniently fell around my birthday, so it was only right to have a two in one party. What I really want to share though is the fact that I got a cake for my birthday, with candles, with my name (spelt correctly) on it. I do not think this has happened in the last 20 years, happiness.

Other than the rater successful party I managed to have a great birthday, one would imagine that being far away from home on days like these would be hard. Well yes, I do miss my family and friends but it was not at all spoilt. I feel blessed to have found a few amazing people to surround myself with.

The problem with turning 25 however is not the fact that it’s a freakin quarter of a centaury, it’s the fact that I can remember turning 20 just the other day, the reality of 30 has never been so obvious. Then again I’m sure 30 is like the new 20.

I have also surprised myself in being as brave (or crazy) to rent a motorbike. I’m still just driving up and down the street close to my house to get used to this horse before daring into (dramatic music cue) Hanoi traffic. I desire that everybody make an effort to watch Vietnam Top Gear Special to be even more impressed with this piece of information. I am motivated enough by now to just brave the driving thing, I live further from work now so it is one of those things that has to happen. The only rule, it seems, is that there are no rules, so will just have to keep that in mind. Furthermore, a part of me also just wants to prove that I can face this challenge. I mean seriously if I was mad enough to come to Vietnam by myself not knowing what the hell I’m getting into then surely I can face (dramatic music cue) … Hanoi traffic. Surely… right??

Do not have a whole lot more to say really, not working all that much the last few weeks. This has a bittersweet pay off. Lots of time to pretend that I’m a lady leisure but also lots of time to spend money that a lady of leisure should have, but not really seeing as I’m not working all that much. This should pick up by April and I will be back in the swing of being the hard working teacher.
Not that I’m really complaining that time is filled with a daily ‘strong-will-never-be-able-to-appreciate-normal-coffee-again’ Vietnamese coffee fix, long lunches and might I say wonderful company. Along with satisfying my ongoing fascination with all that is Vietnam and Hanoi. Never a dull moment.

Just a quick update on my plans for the future: I was planning to only being here for about 7-8 months, do the course, sign a 6-month contract, do some traveling, and then go home to my normal life. So go back get on with life having happily gotten ‘this’ out of my system with a good story for the kids one day when I grow up. This vision has changed; it seems that I will be here at least till mid August before going home and then maybe coming back for another year. Conclusion? I feel like I have found something that I really love and should stick with it until that familiar feeling of wanting change creeps up on me again.

At the time of this going to print there are 17 days to go until my darling sister comes to visit. As mentioned in previous updates I will still not even attempt to capture my excitement in these limiting spaces between heart and typing.

So Thailand right...

I suppose it was only to seal the goodness of the amazing Thai break in to my memory forever that purposed Hanoi to be freezing and honking mad when I arrived back on Wednesday. This however was not the strange part to my arrival, the strange part was the closer I got home from the airport I realized just that… I am home. Hanoi is truly now the place where I live… my hometown. Even driving on the wrong side of the road (as opposed to the right side in SA and Thailand) felt more normal.

Of course I did not have a chance to miss my new and dear hometown with only a week to spend in truly amazing Thailand. Being forced to find the balance in trying to do too much in not enough time, adding some good old lazy relaxing chill time, wrapped up with constantly being right there …in the moment. Taking photo’s for the curious friend and the jealous mother, more than really trying to capture the memory, because in all honesty, who has ever been able to do that? What a good week in was in deed.

Now Bangkok: Give any girl some Baht and let her loose in Bangkok and the result is bound to be successful. Almost too much to choose from can be overwhelming at first but this challenge is one that will not stand in the way for too long. I got that ‘I’m a girl and need to shop’ urge out of my system for a while… hmmm for a little while.

Another must see charm of Bangkok is Koa San road, unofficially the watering hole where the tourists go to see what the travelers look like. I must say I have not felt so normal even unappreciated in a while. You see walking around in most parts of Hanoi I always get a few glances being a Western woman and all. Although this is not the case in Koa San, the different accents heard every few seconds, the Eastern European fashionistas, and then those overall interesting looking backpackers. Only overshadowed by hundreds of jewelry, sunglasses, pretty girly clothes and politically incorrect t-shirts, not to mention the bars that find it sufficient to only advertise their drinks as ‘strong’. Do however walk the surrounding streets for more choices in restaurants and colorful markets.

Only having a few days to take in the splendor of Thailand, I would ideally not have wanted to spend a whole lot of time in traveling form the one spot to the next. This unfortunately was not the case seeing as a trip form Bangkok to Koh Chang all in all works out to a full day. This at least is not a total loss of time seeing as I would have spent hours on the beach pondering life. This could now be done on the bus. So thoughts, personality and emotions captive for long time the only thing to do was convince all of the above that we are having a good time.

And then… sigh, then the beach, the glorious island that will forever live on in my memory as the truest escape from ‘it all’. My happy home was to be called Lonely Beach, Sunflower Hotel (or hostel) to be more exact. What a blessing it was to be here, the jungle and mountains as you look back, a walk out to the ocean where the feeling of space was almost overwhelming after spending so much time in cities. A combination of amusing fellow backpackers and relaxed locals creates an atmosphere that will have you believe that this is the way life was intended to be. A generous supply of bars, cafes and small shops ensures that you will not be wondering what to do next. How could anything bad happen here…ever? Apart from getting a bamboo tattoo and some dreadlocks?

I would highly recommend renting a motorbike and exploring the island, finding look out points at sunset or just finding another spot to have that cool beer in the tropical day. Having said that, there would be absolutely no judgment if all you want to do is find a hammock and happily watch the sun turn itself into the moon.

Could you assume by now that I had a great time? Of course time went too fast, silly that. I did come back feeling rested and ready for a few more months before I feel like I’m losing my mind again. It was a short break but a full one.

In other Hanoi news, I’m back into the swing teaching and still can safely say that I love it, wondering almost how it took me this long to get here. Do not have a whole lot of classes this month seeing was the Tet holidays, basically like Christmas but with different trees. So it’s a kind intro back into the working world.

The next few events to really look forward to is moving into a house… a real house! My birthday… 15 March, make a mental note guys. Then the much anticipated visit of my sister in April. Could I possibly convey the pure excitement that I have for her arrival! Will be sending a few requests with what she will have to bring with from home. Bring me: Rooi bos tea, smarties, Afrikaans music, Mrs Balls chutney, Highveld thunderstorms, biltong, my fathers potjie kos, my mom’s cooking, the smell of a braai…

3 moths and things down that line

Staring at this blank screen, I wonder how to start this blog. Start with a joke, find an opening line that would inspire an Obama speech or simply just by saying, I don’t really know how to start this one off? Seems we will go with the later.

This is the official I have survived and thrived 3-month update. What an amazing month this has been, filled with some good ol hard work and parties… being the silly season after all. Yes I was teaching on Christmas eve as well as New Years eve, like to think it was one of those things that makes me a stronger person in the long run. (Christmas eve consisted of working till 9:30, walking home, eating instant noodles and watching American Idol reruns, however save your pity for now) Having said that I also managed a few good celebrations to make up for this injustice.

My darling students thought it a good idea to take their teacher out on the town just before Christmas and give her an experience tourists only dream about. Our first stop to the fabulous evening was a charming hot pot restaurant, where the food was good and the company even more so. (note on the food: not too sure what I was eating half the time, one of those things you just don’t think about). I was surprised to discover that my students seem to speak English better after a few drinks (hmmm a new strategy?). Inevitably, karaoke was the next logical choice… of course. I was a victim in this situation, there is only a limited choice of English songs so I was forced I tell you to sing songs like ‘Eternal Flame’ and a few others that shall not be mentioned. With a certain amount of Dutch courage running through a few of my male students blood streams they found it absolutely necessary to serenade ‘Hello’ to their at this stage much loved English teacher. Priceless.

A special mention must also go out to the two Christmas parties, good food, beautiful people and rather amusing after parties. I do feel that at certain stages I have my students days all over again (this does take the sting out of approaching the mid twenties mark).

New Years despite working till 9:30 (and being smeared with chocolate cake by my energetic students at the end of class) was a major success. Started with a stunning cocktail bar overlooking Hoan Kiem Lake, less stunning was the fact that we were kicked out at 11:45, so it was a race against the clock to get to the next place. The kind of place where the owners bribe the authorities to stay open late and you have to go in through the side door. We made it and well happy New Year from there.

I still get such an absolute kick out of being South African here, every now and then I get congratulated for coming from an interesting country. I have never before had to explain my mere existence like I have to here. Yes, I’m white, and no I’m not European, I’m African, no I don’t own a gun or a lion (okay nobody asked me about the lion… yet). There is more to South Africa than crime and Nelson Mandela… and the world cup. Yes we have panic buttons and electrical fencing. Lastly yes we are the best darn country in whole world ever!

In other news, yes, there is other news, it’s not all party party here. I am looking for a new place to stay, currently am still in a guesthouse. I am also planning for my mom to come visit in Feb, yaaaaaaaay! Hopefully also my Roomie, known to many as Christa. Looking forward to showing people around my new and happy hometown. Then lastly, I have lost a bit personality in the last few days, no Vitamin D does make for a bit of gloomy girl, the last time I was in some sunshine was Christmas day! Sunshine where art thou?

December and the 'not' holiday

December is here South Africa. What this means to most of you is long hot summer afternoons, n braai here and there, the beach for many. To put this in a personal context; my family will be ‘summering’ in Jbay for most of the festive season. I know the routine so well, lots of lazy days spent on the beach, good meals at our favorite restaurants. An entire day trip will be set aside to stock up on the best home made rusks under the sun (yes they will drive 2 hours to ‘thyme and again’ a home deli close to Plett). Drinking wine on the balcony, relaxing, staring at the distant dunes and counting the fishing boats far off. I suppose it is this knowledge that has brought a sudden wave of homesickness out of nowhere as I settle even more into my expat English teacher life.

I was under no illusion that this time of my life would be by any means easy and adventurous on a constant basis. It is however, a different story coming face to face with the reality of being so far from home, and despite the blessing of friends made here, alone.

I should maybe go back and delete the first two paragraphs or rethink the structure. I realize that you might think I’m not happy here. Let me reassure you, I am very content with my decision and everyday routine. Not for a second have I regretted this almost impulsive decision. I am not even thinking of going back home till the right time (possibly June). I suppose this is just a difficult time to be so far away from family.

All this has forced me to pay special attention to all that has so generously blessed me with beautiful, colorful and meaningful experiences. I would be disappointed in myself later if I spent too much time missing Jefferys Bay and my mommy. So what is it that makes all of this worthwhile?

Firstly the lifestyle, as I mostly work in the evenings I have whole mornings and parts of the afternoon to spend either in utter laziness of long lunches, appreciating my close by park or writing long e-mails. I have this ideal that I will start being more productive like learning the language, taking art classes or even exercise… hmmm it is still an ideal at this stage.

Then secondly, my job as an English teacher. I have mentioned this before but I am still amazed at just how much I do love this job for the most part. It truly is a wonderful opportunity being allowed into peoples lives… helping, motivating and even inspiring them to grow and be better. I am in love with my students. Their willingness to learn and participate simply brings such joy to my heart. Hardly a class goes by without some good giggles and silly jokes. As an English teacher here you are unofficially expected to be part educator, part comedian and part entertainer… needless to say I am in my element here.

Of course a special mention must simply be given to the people I have met so far. People from all over, different walks of life, each with their own unique story. To give an example the other night I found myself on a rooftop in the company of a Brit, an American, a Swede and a Dutch person. (Side note on the Dutch guy: we had some great conversation in Dutch and Afrikaans, was hilarious).
Then lastly, the simple things that make Hanoi unique. The view from my balcony could be a boring sight after a while, but I still find amusement just looking out on what is happening below. Like the neighbor that speaks to his birds everyday, the singing sweet potato lady walking up and down the streets, the constant buzz of every day life in my otherwise quiet alley. The hundreds of brides in the park, weddings are a big deal here, and the wedding party will spend days on their photo shoots. The make shift side walk restaurants. Fruit and flower stalls on every corner. Motorbikes transporting anything from an entire family to a flat screen TV. Yes the small everyday sights allow me to simply loose myself in all is different and yet normal.

I can not end this blog without making mention of right of passage into adulthood. I had my first parents meeting last night, and never before have I felt like a grown till that moment. I had to stop myself from saying Oom and Tannie… like I would to my friends parents. Paying tax, taking cough syrup by myself, traveling to the other side of the world I thought would be a good sign that I am no longer a child, but the parents meeting will go down in my personal history as the moment I grew up.

the importance of here

Suddenly and never otherwise, this emotion of pure exhilaration sneaks up on me as I walk through markets or navigate across a busy street, I’m tempted to just stop and giggle at myself for being here. I do enjoy repeating this to myself: I left a comfort zone, a respectable job, a gorgeous country and beautiful people behind to come and ‘get this travel urge out of my system’ the self congratulating is never ending. Now the danger with this ‘adventure’, ‘travel phase’ or call it what you will time of my life is that I’m starting to feel it having the complete opposite effect of getting it ‘out of my system’. Now I know this will greatly alarm my mother, but if anybody she understands the thrill of different places, new challenges, more perspective and everything else that usually accompanies travel, maybe I will just blame her on this one.

The thing is that after getting through the worst of the culture shock, finding the ability to deal with missing family and friends and just having a bit of routine in place I wonder if I will ever be satisfied with 8-5 and all that goes with it again. This could also just be the result of being so happy with this move in life and rewards of being in the right place, who knows in a few months I might feel totally different.

I am about a week into being real teacher and as unbelievably overwhelming as it was I will dare say that I am in love with it. Those who know me and myself most of all could never before in my life fathom that I would ever want to be a teacher or actually like it. Another great aspect of living abroad I think, finding out things about yourself that you never would otherwise. I highly recommend this madness to anybody!

Happily I have a very diverse group of classes and it would be a mistake to prepare for any class the same way. I have a bunch of 6 year olds that just got acquainted with English a few weeks ago, the most energetic 8-9 year olds I have ever encountered, o so ‘cool’ teenagers and then lastly a colorful mix of young adults each studying English for different reasons. I have found a soft spot for each of these groups… maybe even more for the little boy that asked me if I was from heaven. I have great fun with each new class asking them to guess where I am from. I get a lot of USA, UK, Canada, Brazil and even Finland. They are usually very confused at the fact that I am from Africa and am not black.

I now have a very strange daily routine, seeing as I teach in the evenings during the week and a full day on the weekend. I am forced, you see, to sleep late on weekdays which will definitely take some getting used to, there still is the conventional voice that has turned to my wake-up alarm “get up lazy ass”, so rude.

I have also been extremely blessed to finally get a laptop, so no more dodgy internet cafes once a day! This has resulted in many a happy thing… Facebook all the time, the wonder and joy that is Skype and lastly my favorite new discovery: You Tube. This has brought a bit of home so much closer, South African and good Afrikaans music can now be enjoyed at anytime. ( Have not been that home sick to miss Kurt Darren or Nicolas Louw yet).

That is all the news for now folks, till next time… which might in fact be very soon.

Hanoi, Hunting and Happiness

Any daydream we might have harboured about Hanoi being a bit less honking-mad was quickly destroyed by our taxi driver on route from the airport, honking I kid you not at empty spaces. In Hanoi I have come to the conclusion that it is more about "I'm still alive while operating this motor in case the rest of road users might be wondering" (I breathe therefore I honk). I would like to say that I am getting a bit more used to it, like those small town people who stop hearing the town clock after living there for many years. This is not the case.

I have made the right decision in being all free spirited and moving to all new city because it seemed like a good idea at the time. I still have every reminder that I am in Vietnam but the two cities are different like Capitalism and Communism, well this is not really true, more an attempt at a bad joke. While I enjoyed the vibe and people in Saigon I find so much more in Hanoi to appreciate; like butterflies, big old trees lining the streets, parks with flowers, colors.. more colors somehow.

The attitude of the locals will take some getting used to. It is as if each city was given a fair amount of friendliness and rudeness. The Saigonians (yes I know this not right) have found a way to blend this into a nice mixture of being overall 'nice' locals. In Hanoi however they seemed to give the portions in oil and water, some of most helpful and rude people I have come into contact here, sorry to say more oil than water though.

Now with the admin part of this blog:
Last week in Saigon was filled with looking forward to getting outta there, trying to recall grammar rules for the exam (all forgotten again). Karaoke, which was the most fun I have had in Saigon, highlight being the united artists seeing our hearts out to 'We are the Phampion'. This kind of magic we attempted to recreate to a disappointing result as all karaoke places seemed to go into hiding the Friday night, maybe as to protect themselves from the bunch of crazy tourists.

I have the TEFL qualification in the bag giving me the power to walk around with a big smile on my face and the hope of getting more dollars than those dirty backpackers who also try and teach on the side to continue their dirty backpacker lifestyle. On the other hand it seems that I will need just that little bit more here than a TEFL qualification, degree, perfect English and a charming personality... a British/American/Australian Passport. For crying out loud South Africans speak better English than Australians! I would usually make the joke at the expense of the Yanks... but I have American friends now and rather like them. The Vietnamese do not seem to be too fond of the Africans.

I have started the job hunt and understand now better than ever why they say 'hunt'. Trekking the through the bushes (city and job sites), armed with weapons (CV, degree, TEFL, professional yet happy face), camouflaged (dressed to impress), now awaiting the kill... but how does my head end up on their wall as the prized kudu (token foreign teacher)?

In my ever optimistic self I have this vision how by my next blog I tell you all about my perfect high paying job, while planning to travel the rest of Asia and the world... mu ha ha.

Thank you Saigon!

My my look at the time, could it be true that I am in actual fact spending my fourth Saturday in Vietnam? What's that whole theory of time flying and having fun? hmmm

So Saigon, although I have bought a ticket to Hanoi following the maybe greener pastures idea, I have to say this about the city that so easily took me in with a their welcoming band of hooting and friendly locals: Yes, I am reminded of Hillbrow and even Maputo most of the time but I am in love with the energy this city oozes. I have new understanding of the sidewalk cafe concept... there is literally a little stand every few 100 meters selling mostly iced drinks and the best iced coffee I have ever had in all of my life ( I admit the condensmilk does have something to do with it). The new arrival in Saigon would be forgiven for thinking that there is a kids party being set up on every corner, as these stands usually are accompanied with tiny plastic chairs to sit on. Perfect for taking 5 minutes to relax and watch the world go by, and so much is going by. This is not exclusive to the coffee stands though, entire restaurants are set up this way. The budget traveler (like myself) will also realise rather quickly that these options are way cheaper than the regte egte restaurants that can also be found everywhere.

What I also just really appreciate about Vietnam so far is the authenticity. Go on to Google images type in Vietnam and you are assured to see those colonial hats, woman in traditional dresses and those (ahem) long poles they use to carry EVERYTHING and ANYTHING on each side ( honestly can't think of a better way to try and explain this, sorry). Thing is though that you arrive here and it really does still look this way. Nothing as disappointing as those tourist might be who arrive at O.R Tambo with no Zulu warrior to be spotted anywhere.

It is a combination of being a history nerd and the respect that I want to show to my host country that made want to go to the History museum today. So with all good intentions I was off on a motorbike taxi to the address the Lonely Planet book assured it would be... to start off it was not there, I then proceeded to consult a numerous amount of locals as to where this is. Note to self: The Vietnamese are known for being really friendly and also for their pride: This makes a bad combination for the traveler, every person I ask gave me different directions! I then realised that they in actual fact do not understand what the hell I am saying but will not admit it, so rather with all smiles point left then right then into where I started. Alas I have given up on this ideal.

I did however make it to the War Museum, rather intense but definitely worth the visit. I was warned that it is very biased, but I must say that this somehow restored balance to what ever idea I had about the American War here. I have only ever had the perspective of well written first hand account books and Hollywood impressive films, so this was good to realise that there are still some stories untold. As a South African Afrikaans citizen I was also just reminded that each and every country seems to have blood on their hands, some shame... seems like non of us (citizens of the world) will ever be able to cast the first stone...

One more week left of the course before I head off to Hanoi, traveling with 3 others: The all American gal, one of the most liberal Americans I have ever met and a Brit that has forever destroyed any vision I had that all British men are like Hugh Grant or Mr. Darcy.... Amazing bunch of people so I am looking forward to this trip, as well as the adventure of something new.