December and the 'not' holiday

December is here South Africa. What this means to most of you is long hot summer afternoons, n braai here and there, the beach for many. To put this in a personal context; my family will be ‘summering’ in Jbay for most of the festive season. I know the routine so well, lots of lazy days spent on the beach, good meals at our favorite restaurants. An entire day trip will be set aside to stock up on the best home made rusks under the sun (yes they will drive 2 hours to ‘thyme and again’ a home deli close to Plett). Drinking wine on the balcony, relaxing, staring at the distant dunes and counting the fishing boats far off. I suppose it is this knowledge that has brought a sudden wave of homesickness out of nowhere as I settle even more into my expat English teacher life.

I was under no illusion that this time of my life would be by any means easy and adventurous on a constant basis. It is however, a different story coming face to face with the reality of being so far from home, and despite the blessing of friends made here, alone.

I should maybe go back and delete the first two paragraphs or rethink the structure. I realize that you might think I’m not happy here. Let me reassure you, I am very content with my decision and everyday routine. Not for a second have I regretted this almost impulsive decision. I am not even thinking of going back home till the right time (possibly June). I suppose this is just a difficult time to be so far away from family.

All this has forced me to pay special attention to all that has so generously blessed me with beautiful, colorful and meaningful experiences. I would be disappointed in myself later if I spent too much time missing Jefferys Bay and my mommy. So what is it that makes all of this worthwhile?

Firstly the lifestyle, as I mostly work in the evenings I have whole mornings and parts of the afternoon to spend either in utter laziness of long lunches, appreciating my close by park or writing long e-mails. I have this ideal that I will start being more productive like learning the language, taking art classes or even exercise… hmmm it is still an ideal at this stage.

Then secondly, my job as an English teacher. I have mentioned this before but I am still amazed at just how much I do love this job for the most part. It truly is a wonderful opportunity being allowed into peoples lives… helping, motivating and even inspiring them to grow and be better. I am in love with my students. Their willingness to learn and participate simply brings such joy to my heart. Hardly a class goes by without some good giggles and silly jokes. As an English teacher here you are unofficially expected to be part educator, part comedian and part entertainer… needless to say I am in my element here.

Of course a special mention must simply be given to the people I have met so far. People from all over, different walks of life, each with their own unique story. To give an example the other night I found myself on a rooftop in the company of a Brit, an American, a Swede and a Dutch person. (Side note on the Dutch guy: we had some great conversation in Dutch and Afrikaans, was hilarious).
Then lastly, the simple things that make Hanoi unique. The view from my balcony could be a boring sight after a while, but I still find amusement just looking out on what is happening below. Like the neighbor that speaks to his birds everyday, the singing sweet potato lady walking up and down the streets, the constant buzz of every day life in my otherwise quiet alley. The hundreds of brides in the park, weddings are a big deal here, and the wedding party will spend days on their photo shoots. The make shift side walk restaurants. Fruit and flower stalls on every corner. Motorbikes transporting anything from an entire family to a flat screen TV. Yes the small everyday sights allow me to simply loose myself in all is different and yet normal.

I can not end this blog without making mention of right of passage into adulthood. I had my first parents meeting last night, and never before have I felt like a grown till that moment. I had to stop myself from saying Oom and Tannie… like I would to my friends parents. Paying tax, taking cough syrup by myself, traveling to the other side of the world I thought would be a good sign that I am no longer a child, but the parents meeting will go down in my personal history as the moment I grew up.

the importance of here

Suddenly and never otherwise, this emotion of pure exhilaration sneaks up on me as I walk through markets or navigate across a busy street, I’m tempted to just stop and giggle at myself for being here. I do enjoy repeating this to myself: I left a comfort zone, a respectable job, a gorgeous country and beautiful people behind to come and ‘get this travel urge out of my system’ the self congratulating is never ending. Now the danger with this ‘adventure’, ‘travel phase’ or call it what you will time of my life is that I’m starting to feel it having the complete opposite effect of getting it ‘out of my system’. Now I know this will greatly alarm my mother, but if anybody she understands the thrill of different places, new challenges, more perspective and everything else that usually accompanies travel, maybe I will just blame her on this one.

The thing is that after getting through the worst of the culture shock, finding the ability to deal with missing family and friends and just having a bit of routine in place I wonder if I will ever be satisfied with 8-5 and all that goes with it again. This could also just be the result of being so happy with this move in life and rewards of being in the right place, who knows in a few months I might feel totally different.

I am about a week into being real teacher and as unbelievably overwhelming as it was I will dare say that I am in love with it. Those who know me and myself most of all could never before in my life fathom that I would ever want to be a teacher or actually like it. Another great aspect of living abroad I think, finding out things about yourself that you never would otherwise. I highly recommend this madness to anybody!

Happily I have a very diverse group of classes and it would be a mistake to prepare for any class the same way. I have a bunch of 6 year olds that just got acquainted with English a few weeks ago, the most energetic 8-9 year olds I have ever encountered, o so ‘cool’ teenagers and then lastly a colorful mix of young adults each studying English for different reasons. I have found a soft spot for each of these groups… maybe even more for the little boy that asked me if I was from heaven. I have great fun with each new class asking them to guess where I am from. I get a lot of USA, UK, Canada, Brazil and even Finland. They are usually very confused at the fact that I am from Africa and am not black.

I now have a very strange daily routine, seeing as I teach in the evenings during the week and a full day on the weekend. I am forced, you see, to sleep late on weekdays which will definitely take some getting used to, there still is the conventional voice that has turned to my wake-up alarm “get up lazy ass”, so rude.

I have also been extremely blessed to finally get a laptop, so no more dodgy internet cafes once a day! This has resulted in many a happy thing… Facebook all the time, the wonder and joy that is Skype and lastly my favorite new discovery: You Tube. This has brought a bit of home so much closer, South African and good Afrikaans music can now be enjoyed at anytime. ( Have not been that home sick to miss Kurt Darren or Nicolas Louw yet).

That is all the news for now folks, till next time… which might in fact be very soon.

Hanoi, Hunting and Happiness

Any daydream we might have harboured about Hanoi being a bit less honking-mad was quickly destroyed by our taxi driver on route from the airport, honking I kid you not at empty spaces. In Hanoi I have come to the conclusion that it is more about "I'm still alive while operating this motor in case the rest of road users might be wondering" (I breathe therefore I honk). I would like to say that I am getting a bit more used to it, like those small town people who stop hearing the town clock after living there for many years. This is not the case.

I have made the right decision in being all free spirited and moving to all new city because it seemed like a good idea at the time. I still have every reminder that I am in Vietnam but the two cities are different like Capitalism and Communism, well this is not really true, more an attempt at a bad joke. While I enjoyed the vibe and people in Saigon I find so much more in Hanoi to appreciate; like butterflies, big old trees lining the streets, parks with flowers, colors.. more colors somehow.

The attitude of the locals will take some getting used to. It is as if each city was given a fair amount of friendliness and rudeness. The Saigonians (yes I know this not right) have found a way to blend this into a nice mixture of being overall 'nice' locals. In Hanoi however they seemed to give the portions in oil and water, some of most helpful and rude people I have come into contact here, sorry to say more oil than water though.

Now with the admin part of this blog:
Last week in Saigon was filled with looking forward to getting outta there, trying to recall grammar rules for the exam (all forgotten again). Karaoke, which was the most fun I have had in Saigon, highlight being the united artists seeing our hearts out to 'We are the Phampion'. This kind of magic we attempted to recreate to a disappointing result as all karaoke places seemed to go into hiding the Friday night, maybe as to protect themselves from the bunch of crazy tourists.

I have the TEFL qualification in the bag giving me the power to walk around with a big smile on my face and the hope of getting more dollars than those dirty backpackers who also try and teach on the side to continue their dirty backpacker lifestyle. On the other hand it seems that I will need just that little bit more here than a TEFL qualification, degree, perfect English and a charming personality... a British/American/Australian Passport. For crying out loud South Africans speak better English than Australians! I would usually make the joke at the expense of the Yanks... but I have American friends now and rather like them. The Vietnamese do not seem to be too fond of the Africans.

I have started the job hunt and understand now better than ever why they say 'hunt'. Trekking the through the bushes (city and job sites), armed with weapons (CV, degree, TEFL, professional yet happy face), camouflaged (dressed to impress), now awaiting the kill... but how does my head end up on their wall as the prized kudu (token foreign teacher)?

In my ever optimistic self I have this vision how by my next blog I tell you all about my perfect high paying job, while planning to travel the rest of Asia and the world... mu ha ha.

Thank you Saigon!

My my look at the time, could it be true that I am in actual fact spending my fourth Saturday in Vietnam? What's that whole theory of time flying and having fun? hmmm

So Saigon, although I have bought a ticket to Hanoi following the maybe greener pastures idea, I have to say this about the city that so easily took me in with a their welcoming band of hooting and friendly locals: Yes, I am reminded of Hillbrow and even Maputo most of the time but I am in love with the energy this city oozes. I have new understanding of the sidewalk cafe concept... there is literally a little stand every few 100 meters selling mostly iced drinks and the best iced coffee I have ever had in all of my life ( I admit the condensmilk does have something to do with it). The new arrival in Saigon would be forgiven for thinking that there is a kids party being set up on every corner, as these stands usually are accompanied with tiny plastic chairs to sit on. Perfect for taking 5 minutes to relax and watch the world go by, and so much is going by. This is not exclusive to the coffee stands though, entire restaurants are set up this way. The budget traveler (like myself) will also realise rather quickly that these options are way cheaper than the regte egte restaurants that can also be found everywhere.

What I also just really appreciate about Vietnam so far is the authenticity. Go on to Google images type in Vietnam and you are assured to see those colonial hats, woman in traditional dresses and those (ahem) long poles they use to carry EVERYTHING and ANYTHING on each side ( honestly can't think of a better way to try and explain this, sorry). Thing is though that you arrive here and it really does still look this way. Nothing as disappointing as those tourist might be who arrive at O.R Tambo with no Zulu warrior to be spotted anywhere.

It is a combination of being a history nerd and the respect that I want to show to my host country that made want to go to the History museum today. So with all good intentions I was off on a motorbike taxi to the address the Lonely Planet book assured it would be... to start off it was not there, I then proceeded to consult a numerous amount of locals as to where this is. Note to self: The Vietnamese are known for being really friendly and also for their pride: This makes a bad combination for the traveler, every person I ask gave me different directions! I then realised that they in actual fact do not understand what the hell I am saying but will not admit it, so rather with all smiles point left then right then into where I started. Alas I have given up on this ideal.

I did however make it to the War Museum, rather intense but definitely worth the visit. I was warned that it is very biased, but I must say that this somehow restored balance to what ever idea I had about the American War here. I have only ever had the perspective of well written first hand account books and Hollywood impressive films, so this was good to realise that there are still some stories untold. As a South African Afrikaans citizen I was also just reminded that each and every country seems to have blood on their hands, some shame... seems like non of us (citizens of the world) will ever be able to cast the first stone...

One more week left of the course before I head off to Hanoi, traveling with 3 others: The all American gal, one of the most liberal Americans I have ever met and a Brit that has forever destroyed any vision I had that all British men are like Hugh Grant or Mr. Darcy.... Amazing bunch of people so I am looking forward to this trip, as well as the adventure of something new.

Hoot, time and pizza...

Hooting in Saigon: please note that this has absolutely nothing to do with safety or anything practical here, this I have discovered, it is a mere ' I acknowledge you there fellow road user', nothing to be stressed about. I do feel the need to go on about the traffic a bit more, dull as it may sound, but it is simply insane! The fact that I have not seen anybody stop their motorbike, pull out a gun or at least resorted to some vulgar language and hand movements is simply beyond my South African mindset. I do believe that there should be some sort of a ceremony for every time I have crossed a manic busy street all by myself managing to keep all my limbs in tact. As my ma maar geweet het wat haar ou dogertjie doen!

In other news a bit more personal than hooting and my pure fascination, I am more than half way to my TEFL qualification. As part of the course we are required to get in a number of practical lessons before the end of the course. I have been as entertained as to give two lessons to an Engineer Varsity student and about 2 lessons to some high school kids. I must say that I have really surprised myself so far, I expected it to be much harder and I have found patience somewhere inside I never knew I had. Rather cute the way the kids are so interested to find out more about me, not so cute the way the boys feel it necessary to call me beautiful and so forth just before a lesson... tsk tsk kids! I must share that I was asked by my varsity student if Joburg is so dangerous because of all the wild animals, imagine. Basically me a teacher might just work out. So far so good.

I confess that I have been here more than two weeks and have hardly done anything of touristic (is that a word) value. The first weekend was geared towards getting over culture shock, second weekend recovering from staying up all night and the futile attempt of shopping. Then come the last weekend and was arrested by what I though was Swine Flu and hardly had the energy to walk to the window. So the coming weekend will be a date for all that is museum, cultural and Saigonish.

I started thinking about leaving Saigon and rather moving up to Hanoi... not as hectic, cooler and apparently more scenic. I admit that this inner crazy city living is starting to get to me, I'm used to space. Seeing as I'm living on the edge why not pack up and go somewhere new while I'm in the habit. I do however look forward to settling a bit, renting a house, buying pot plants, cooking my own dinner, you know. Not that I could possibly complain about the food here, most of the times it is so good and so affordable, I definitely am not going hungry here. Think this evening was the first time I had some western food... chicken and mushroom pizza. Somehow I have not had any sushi yet! I don't know how this happened and I'm sure Belinda is very worried about this.

That is all for now folks, I actually have homework, imagine that.

How to get over a "what the hell was I thinking" phase.

Step 1: As soon as possible find a bar.... wait a minute this is the wrong advise!

Try again:

Step 1: A sense of humor is vital, you will not survive without it. At times, okay 95% of the time you will be the only one laughing but that is fine. I repeat you can not leave home without this!

Step 2: Try and remember as much of each day as possible, it will help thinking about how terrified you where the day before and how much you have learnt since then. Before you know it you will think very fondly of your first few days and how you have grown since then. Stepping out of the airport with a million new faces staring at you, a taxi driver ripping you off and weather that makes you think your on holiday will soon become a great story to tell the people back home.

Step 3: E-mail your mother on a daily basis, you will not have a good day till she has sent you some wise words.

Step 4: Enjoy your own company... at times it will be the best conversation you can have.

So, I would like to carry on with my thesis with all my new found wisdom but to tell you the honest truth... I don't know if I have gotten over my "what the hell was I thinking' phase. Sometimes I think I have but then alas.

To sum up my first week in Saigon will go as follows: Hoora my guesthouse and course really do exist, I met a lot of Americans, fallen in love.... with the local ice coffee, lost my bank card so had to budget like mad for a few days, discovered the fine art of crossing the street with millions of scooters approaching ( slow walking and praying out loud), survived stepping on a rat, went out till day break....

I am simply amazed by just how different this place is compared to home. I believe that were would simply not be enough information on the Internet to prepare a girl on what to expect. Of course I knew some culture shock and tears would be involved and I even congratulated myself on preparing for this... but I did not expect it would be to such an intensity! Yes and the character building continues...

I have had about 5 days of TEFL in the bag and in a few days they actually expect us to start teaching for practical purposes.... Regte egte kinders in regte egte skole!! Don't feel like I have the skills for this at all so should be one those opportunities to use my own advise and apply as much humor as possible. Should I also admit the following heartbreaking truth? Okay then, I feel like I'm getting an American accent!!! We are about 9 people on the course and all but for a Scotsman and me they are all from the land of "dreams". Bunch of swell people though.

I go through ups and downs but overall I know I have made one of the best moves of my life so far, only a week but it feels like I could be a month. Walking down the street passing street cafes, colorful markets, the constant buzz of hooting and the drone of scooters that never seem to end, surprise rain storms and hats and locals staring at me.... it strikes me every time and suddenly to think that I'm actually in Vietnam!

Prelude to all that is new, different and Asian

Yes well here I am with a few hours left in my sunny, South African comfort zone... I thought it best to create a blog with the intention of updating the fellas back home on my progress through my travels and experiences in Vietnam (This being where I shall be by the end of the week).

As an introduction and to give more color to what is about to typed out on these empty screens in the coming months I would like to give a short overview of how a silly, sarcastic and stylish girl like myself found herself next to a rather big suitcase and 6 month ticket to Vietnam...

It was a grey cold winters afternoon... when suddenly I realised it is now or never and the first step was measured in the short walk to the Google sight where the search began. Looking back now I don't think I even could imagine that this will be a reality... which it in all honesty still does not feel like.

Many have asked how I decided on Vietnam and there is simply no meaningful or impressive answer, apart from being able to utter the famous phrase "back in Nam" when referring to basically anything. Vietnam is what I found written on my heart once I realised that this is really something that I want to experience, so that was settled.

I will so far, if all goes according to plan, be an English Teacher... I actually wanted to keep this information concealed to avoid the pressure of correct spelling and impeccable grammar, o well now you all know.. Let me also mention that I will first be completing the TEFL (Teaching English as Foreign Language) course, starting Monday. Bring on the grammar.

Tonight will be my last supper with my most amazing family and this coming event has brought about the realisation that "moments can never be manufactured"- I can not try make anything more out of the last few hours than what I will be given. It is simply reliant on thankfulness of every moment shared together.

Not much else other than to speculate what my next blog will be about... Weather, scooters, accommodation does not exist ( this is a really big fear seeing as I can not actually find my 'guest house' on the Internet), booking my return asap? Well not knowing does have its charms.