Bells Jingling in Hanoi

It is the season to be jolly… and well in Vietnam, a little perplexed. This is now my second Christmas here, and I’m convinced that this time round there are twice the amount of decorations up around the city. It’s strange, because Christmas is not really celebrated here. The big celebration is Tet, coming up end of January, however everywhere I turn I see Christmas trees, tinsel and babies dressed in Santa suites.

I understand all the shops that cater to foreigners dressing up for the occasion but not so much the rest of Hanoi. What is even more confusing is when I ask Vietnamese people what their plans are for Christmas they usually respond by saying that they will stay at home or go out with friends. For the most part, with exceptions of course Hanoians don’t seem to be too fussed about the whole thing at all. Almost to the extent that a single person could care less about Valentines day. Still, what is up with all the decorations?

Christmas time is however a time to whip out the old festive season classics… like the remixed (and o so remixed) versions of ‘Last Christmas’ and Abba’s ‘Happy New Year’. Ben and I actually heard the best one the other day while in the supermarket (on repeat), basically some strange techno version of ‘Last Christmas’ with baby sounds mixed in. So basically,

Last Christmas, I gave you my heart
(goo goo gaa gaa)
But the very next day you gave it away
(insert more strange baby ‘mixed’ sounds here)

Well it’s entertaining…. The first time round.

I have come to believe that there is some kind of rule in the world floating around, that states that if a person does not have their camera at hand they will see cooler things. For example, just two days ago I was driving on Au Co when suddenly I see a cool 25 Asian Santa Clauses on bikes just cruising along like it’s no big deal, they were advertising something, but I couldn’t really tell what. Random.

Or, like the guy I saw in traffic tonight dressed up in his Santa gear, beard and all, with the words Sun Flower sewn onto the back in miss-me-not yellow. He was not the only dressed up Santa I saw driving to and from work tonight. Yes, I had to work on Christmas eve, adding to my point that it’s not a big deal here. It’s better than having to work tomorrow like some teachers I know at other schools.

Then lastly keeping with the Father Christmas theme, I have to tell you (random reader) about my very own personal Santa encounter tonight. My absolute adorable and arguably favourite Beginner class had a little surprise waiting for me in class. I was taken by the hand and led into a dark classroom, all the while promising that my eyes are in deed shut when from behind the door a man in red suites jumps on me. So cute, one of my students had dressed up as Santa to present me with the class Christmas gift. It was a rather big and heavy painting of a Vietnamese village, I think. Nevertheless, I love that they did for me, sure does help to have stories like these to tell when you’re far away from family at Christmas time.

That’s all for now, Merry Christmas dear reader and the happiest of New Years to you!

a Tourist in my own Beautiful South Africa

Visiting South Africa a few months after the widely successful World Cup is like stumbling into a venue a few days after a major party or event. Instead of seeing empty champagne bottles strewn across the floor, bits of unfinished cake and sad balloons hovering under empty tables and chairs, I see soccer ball shaped lights, soccer themed adverts and more flags than I believed China could have produced for such an event. I was thankful to at least get a bit of the after taste of the biggest international event my country ever hosted and all together happy to find a South African flag wherever I look, in your face reminders that you are here. Lekker

Three weeks sounded like a lifetime of relaxation, social and all over refill of Africaness. This was not the case, reality in all its cruelness does allow time to fly when you are having fun. Three weeks was all I got though and I had to make it work. Can you say time management? Well I have never been good at that but I did somehow manage to hug some friends, sort out my banking, stare off into an African sunset with a Savannah dry, annoy my mother (the way she likes it), climb a mountain (range) and hang out with lions, rhinos and zebras ( Of course).




What surprised me the most is how normal everything felt, as if I never left Joburg. The experience of a year in Vietnam simply would not fit into the before and after of being home. I don’t know what I expected.

The benefit of visiting your own country is that you can go wild and act like a tourist while understanding the language and knowing about all those ‘not in the lonely planet’ places. That pretty much sums up my three-week experience actually. Between shopping in tacky touristy shops for beaded giraffe key chains, going to my favourite old coffee shops, and driving on the back roads to get there.

I love South Africa, I am confident that anybody that knows me beyond a hello can confirm this. There is so much I appreciate about the different cultures, there is so much to learn from the complex history, so much to experience and see and taste, there is so much on offer within my own unique Afrikaans culture. I miss it of course, yet there is a great peace within my heart to be away without any certain return date. Take it as it comes then…



Now I’m back in Hanoi, keeping on with keeping on. I missed the coffee and the traffic (yes the traffic she says with only a bit of sarcasm), missed my students and all these special people have somehow found while “getting ‘this’ out of my system”. I have the 1000 year Thang Long Hanoi celebrations to look forward to, in fact celebrating as I type this… great for photos, horrible for traffic. 1000 years! Now that is a long time, my own language (Afrikaans) is hardly 300 years old and my hometown (Johannesburg) is hardly 140 years old! (Don’t quote me on these numbers).

*** The big five: LION, RHINO, LEOPARD, ELEPHANT AND BUFFALO ... and side note on the side note I did manage to spot them all in one day at the Kruger National Park

An almost full year in VN, imaginary friends and general tips for staying alive

Well here we are, it’s today. I’m in the process of making my way home, after almost a whole year. The lead up to finally going home has almost convinced me that time does not fly but crawl. Now I have to reconsider this conviction.

As with lead up to New Years day, I find myself reflecting on the past few months that swear to be 11 months and one week, even if I don’t fully agree that it could have been that long. Really now, my first few days in Vietnam still rest fresh in my memory, not even to mention the nerves of facing my first class.

In my reflection, however I am once again convinced that making this decision more than a year ago has been the best one of my life. I have enjoyed this year like no other, learned so much, not just about Grammar and pronunciation rules but also about myself. Before my arrival, I didn’t know that I could teach never mind that I would actually love it as much as I do. I could go on and on about why I enjoy teaching and possibly write biographies about almost every class I have taught so far. I have a deep and sincere love for my students.

I think back on how I was so absolutely convinced that I would never ever be able to drive a motorbike in Hanoi, resolved to travel by xe om forever. This also changed and I now take great pleasure driving almost anywhere on ‘my-little-pony’, can’t believe I almost missed out on this experience. Don't dare think your living the good Hanoi expat life without a Honda wave, it's a total must have! (yes you Dana!)


This year also brought about the birth of my imaginary friend ‘Gramaal’.(Gramaal= Grammar + Taal [taal the Afrikaans word for Grammar]) He has proven himself a rather useful person when planning for lessons and good company in my nerdiness. You see, as language is now an important part of my job I find myself thinking about it a lot and I honestly think it very interesting. I do however have two full languages here in my brain so comparisons tend to surface every now and then… I then get to explain all of this to Gramaal as he really cares about this too. Nice guy that Gramaal.

ME "Hey Gramaal, did you know that there is no word for 'julle' in English, odd hey?"
GRAMAAL "What about all'yall as the English version?"
ME "I don't think so"
GRAMAAL "Okay then, thanks for that"


So as I’m going home there are a few things for me to keep in mind for personal safety and sanity (and some amusement)
-Honking here (in SA) is not a friendly and necessary way to create awareness of your existence on the road.
-Restaurant staff will not respond to “Em oi!”… pity that... or will they??
-Minor things like red lights really do mean that you have to stop the vehicle. (Ooo this one is important)
-Lock doors… all doors always.
-Accept that your next cup of truly satisfying perfect coffee will only be once your back in Hanoi. (I’m ruined to any coffee that is not super strong, iced and served with condensed milk)
-Almost everybody can understand what you are saying… do that whole “think before you speak thing” again.
-Flaunt your tan, dark and lovely here in Africa!
-Wrong side of the road is now the right side of the road.
-Nobody will get your lame ‘grammar teacher jokes’… unless you tell Gramaal or write it down to share with Ben later.
-There is nothing funny or exotic about your accent here. The way you say ‘yes’ is not that entertaining. (Tell that to Celine). You are also able to refer to ‘robots’ again without judgment.
-Bargaining... uhm, no.



*** So a few days later and I’m back in Johannesburg, was a safe and pleasant trip. I’m looking forward to my Africa refill, will be sure to update again soon.

Using the words 'job' and 'love' in the same sentence

So yes, I can happily and truthfully report that more than often I find myself driving out of Language Link on my ‘My Little Pony’ (my sexy green motorbike), with a big grin and a satisfaction that only a good day in front of the class can bring.

Of course I would be lying if I said that I still jump out of bed in the morning singing ‘yay work today yay’, no that never happens, in fact that has never happened. That is not the point. What I’m trying to convey to you here is that I just simply still love my job. Love it. How could I not?

I get paid to work with people that laugh at my jokes, or more laugh at me making an idiot of myself and I get to laugh at myself for all those ‘kirk kirk’ moments when they don’t really get my lame jokes. Whether the grammar point always gets across is another story for another time.

At the moment my schedule has been changed around a bit. I used to only teach young adults in the evening during the week and full on kids and teen classes on a Sunday. Now I have a real wonderful weekend with a busier timetable during the week. On Monday, Wednesday and Friday I am as …uhm.. fortunate to have two Starter 2 classes in the afternoons. Starter 2 level is still considered a very low level so most of the kids are around 7 or 8 years old.

Now let me say this, I am not yet broody, however these kids are MOST OF THE TIME so darn cute that I’m tempted to just put them in my bag and take them home. What I love about the kids is that there is just never a dull moment. Easily amused, colourful imaginations and energy levels that should be bottled and sold to us old folk that actually need the energy to be productive.

I still consider my General English classes (everyone from 17 and up) as my favourites, that theory is however tested from time to time. Like Friday when as I was about to leave one of students (the cutest little girl ever) runs up to me saying ‘goodbye pretty teacher Lani’ with love and adoration for a her foreign teacher. It was a be there moment but priceless no less.

I honestly have no idea if I will be renewing my contract come November, or for how long I will want to be an English teacher or live in Hanoi. I think this not knowing adds to my appreciation and most of the time love for my job.

In closing and totally off the topic: Ek het vanaand daai punt bereik waar ek actually vir Nicolis Louw gaan soek het op You Tube sodat ek liedjies soos ‘net die een vir my’ kan luister want in alle eerlikheid mis ek maar my taal en boeremeisie wees. Maybe just a moment of weakness so spare the judgment, ek weet julle almal wat my nou verstaan like it ook om nou dan daai lyfie te rock!!


Go Bafana Bafana! ======<0 ******NOISE*********

The true story of a Bafana Bafana supporter in Hanoi

How about I just avoid the part where I try and explain why I have not posted for more than two months ( o just checked I mean 3 months, my bad). How about that? Just move on and share my heart out as if there is nothing to catch up on.

As I’m writing now I am listening to the ‘Waka Waka’ song, bursting almost of national pride and feeling not just a little homesick. I knew of course that I would be missing out on an epic scale but the reality hit home as I sat watching the first half hour of the opening ceremony at the reception area of my school, trying to explain the concept of a ‘rainbow nation’ to the front desk ladies. All the while fighting the overwhelming feeling that may only be described as ‘Proudly South African’. Unfortunately, I missed the rest of the festivities due to a class, but happily made it in time to see my boys singing the national anthem and make history for the next two hours or so.

To my millions of South African readers I don’t have to explain how we (as in the country) are feeling at the moment. United, proud and ready. O where is a vuvuzela insert icon button when you need it? (blows on vuvuzela). o=======<()
I would almost recommend to my other millions of non-South African readers to view my facebook homepage to see all the spirited updates and profile pictures turned SA flags. I can only imagine how amazing the ‘gees’ back home is now… resulting in good dose of homesickness.

Last night was amazing, the American Club and South African Embassy kindly hosted the opening match and it was packed. Armed with my flag and positive attitude I went hoping to walk away with the kind of story I can tell my kids one day. A draw might not be the most glorious moment in history but I think we showed the rest of the world we belong in the Cup. It was wonderful to see that most people supported South Africa even though many put their money on Mexico. I guess it’s that part in all of us that likes to support the underdog.

So this is the part where I explain why experiencing the World Cup from Vietnam is so cool, because in all truth I still love being here with no certain plans of leaving any time soon.

Firstly because of the sure follow up question from ‘Where are you from?’ is not ‘Why aren’t you black?’, but ‘are you come back to your country for World Cup?’. Which is a refreshing break form the 2 minute history lesson of Southern Africa “Jan van Riebeek to Zuma”. However explaining contract and financial responsibilities is a tad less interesting. Having said that, I was asked at last nights venue if I am really from South Africa… Yes I reply while waving my made in China flag… No I don’t believe says the man, but this time I could just point at the big screen and the 85 000 supporters at Soccer city.

I’m actually having a bit of giggle now, because I’m sitting in my living room and I can hear vuvuzelas from the TV next door as the third World Cup game started a few minutes ago.

I asked all of my students in the past few weeks who they thought would win the opening match, and all of them said Mexico. Fair enough Mexico is ranked 17th in the world and we are ranked 82nd… I’m about to gush again, sorry about that, but I’m just so darn proud of them.

It is hard now to really talk about anything else, as I’m so in World Cup mode, so I will just keep this post to an update about that. I foresee that in the next month there will be a few late nights, not only catching the all important South African games but also the American, Australian and Argentinean games (all A’s not planned).

Well that is all for now, hopefully this is getting me back into the habit of posting these life changing, meaningful, deep updates and I might get around to sharing all the excitement that has been going on the last 3 months.

Go Bafana Bafana, Ke Nako!!!!! Supporting you all the way…
Predictions:
SA 2-0 Uruguay
SA 1-0 France (Sorry to my otherwise lovely French housemate)

Random: the safe title for anything

So with the inspiration of my new house mate faithfully updating her blog I felt the sudden inspiration to do the same. I realize of course that a bullet form summary of the last month will not suffice, so here goes, the update of Lan in Nam happy at the almost half a year mark.

I try to think of how not to be cliché when thinking about time and how it flies. Trying to avoid at all costs saying something really lame like “ I can not believe it has almost been half a year bla la la, it feels like yesterday I started teaching yadda yadda”. No surely I’m a bit more skilled than that…. Alas… It really is crazy though that I have almost been here for half a year, knowing that in the wink of an eye I might be writing about being here a year and even then some.

So here with the headlines:

“Girl moves from adequate boring studio to mansion”

“Is 25 the new 16? Quarter of century hang ups”

“Motorbikes in Hanoi: how to overcome your fear and laugh in the face of danger”

“Life? What’s that all about”

So the new house. The Joburgers will understand when I say this, I felt like I moved from a Weltevredenpark hole into a stunning Greenside villa. Well that is what it feels like anyway. When I first saw the house, I felt like a little girl excited about the latest Barbie doll. It is simply lovely.

We share a 5 floor, 4 bedroom, 3 bathroom, 2 rooftops and one flat screen tv. Sharing with a two other teachers, who happen to ad to my joy of international contacts (French and Australian) and whole also happen to be married. It is great to have some movement in my house again, living by myself was good for a while but I prefer this.

Of course, a new place to stay is the perfect excuse for a party, n dat-nat-maak soos ek dit noem (wel ek en al die ander boere). This joyous occasion conveniently fell around my birthday, so it was only right to have a two in one party. What I really want to share though is the fact that I got a cake for my birthday, with candles, with my name (spelt correctly) on it. I do not think this has happened in the last 20 years, happiness.

Other than the rater successful party I managed to have a great birthday, one would imagine that being far away from home on days like these would be hard. Well yes, I do miss my family and friends but it was not at all spoilt. I feel blessed to have found a few amazing people to surround myself with.

The problem with turning 25 however is not the fact that it’s a freakin quarter of a centaury, it’s the fact that I can remember turning 20 just the other day, the reality of 30 has never been so obvious. Then again I’m sure 30 is like the new 20.

I have also surprised myself in being as brave (or crazy) to rent a motorbike. I’m still just driving up and down the street close to my house to get used to this horse before daring into (dramatic music cue) Hanoi traffic. I desire that everybody make an effort to watch Vietnam Top Gear Special to be even more impressed with this piece of information. I am motivated enough by now to just brave the driving thing, I live further from work now so it is one of those things that has to happen. The only rule, it seems, is that there are no rules, so will just have to keep that in mind. Furthermore, a part of me also just wants to prove that I can face this challenge. I mean seriously if I was mad enough to come to Vietnam by myself not knowing what the hell I’m getting into then surely I can face (dramatic music cue) … Hanoi traffic. Surely… right??

Do not have a whole lot more to say really, not working all that much the last few weeks. This has a bittersweet pay off. Lots of time to pretend that I’m a lady leisure but also lots of time to spend money that a lady of leisure should have, but not really seeing as I’m not working all that much. This should pick up by April and I will be back in the swing of being the hard working teacher.
Not that I’m really complaining that time is filled with a daily ‘strong-will-never-be-able-to-appreciate-normal-coffee-again’ Vietnamese coffee fix, long lunches and might I say wonderful company. Along with satisfying my ongoing fascination with all that is Vietnam and Hanoi. Never a dull moment.

Just a quick update on my plans for the future: I was planning to only being here for about 7-8 months, do the course, sign a 6-month contract, do some traveling, and then go home to my normal life. So go back get on with life having happily gotten ‘this’ out of my system with a good story for the kids one day when I grow up. This vision has changed; it seems that I will be here at least till mid August before going home and then maybe coming back for another year. Conclusion? I feel like I have found something that I really love and should stick with it until that familiar feeling of wanting change creeps up on me again.

At the time of this going to print there are 17 days to go until my darling sister comes to visit. As mentioned in previous updates I will still not even attempt to capture my excitement in these limiting spaces between heart and typing.

So Thailand right...

I suppose it was only to seal the goodness of the amazing Thai break in to my memory forever that purposed Hanoi to be freezing and honking mad when I arrived back on Wednesday. This however was not the strange part to my arrival, the strange part was the closer I got home from the airport I realized just that… I am home. Hanoi is truly now the place where I live… my hometown. Even driving on the wrong side of the road (as opposed to the right side in SA and Thailand) felt more normal.

Of course I did not have a chance to miss my new and dear hometown with only a week to spend in truly amazing Thailand. Being forced to find the balance in trying to do too much in not enough time, adding some good old lazy relaxing chill time, wrapped up with constantly being right there …in the moment. Taking photo’s for the curious friend and the jealous mother, more than really trying to capture the memory, because in all honesty, who has ever been able to do that? What a good week in was in deed.

Now Bangkok: Give any girl some Baht and let her loose in Bangkok and the result is bound to be successful. Almost too much to choose from can be overwhelming at first but this challenge is one that will not stand in the way for too long. I got that ‘I’m a girl and need to shop’ urge out of my system for a while… hmmm for a little while.

Another must see charm of Bangkok is Koa San road, unofficially the watering hole where the tourists go to see what the travelers look like. I must say I have not felt so normal even unappreciated in a while. You see walking around in most parts of Hanoi I always get a few glances being a Western woman and all. Although this is not the case in Koa San, the different accents heard every few seconds, the Eastern European fashionistas, and then those overall interesting looking backpackers. Only overshadowed by hundreds of jewelry, sunglasses, pretty girly clothes and politically incorrect t-shirts, not to mention the bars that find it sufficient to only advertise their drinks as ‘strong’. Do however walk the surrounding streets for more choices in restaurants and colorful markets.

Only having a few days to take in the splendor of Thailand, I would ideally not have wanted to spend a whole lot of time in traveling form the one spot to the next. This unfortunately was not the case seeing as a trip form Bangkok to Koh Chang all in all works out to a full day. This at least is not a total loss of time seeing as I would have spent hours on the beach pondering life. This could now be done on the bus. So thoughts, personality and emotions captive for long time the only thing to do was convince all of the above that we are having a good time.

And then… sigh, then the beach, the glorious island that will forever live on in my memory as the truest escape from ‘it all’. My happy home was to be called Lonely Beach, Sunflower Hotel (or hostel) to be more exact. What a blessing it was to be here, the jungle and mountains as you look back, a walk out to the ocean where the feeling of space was almost overwhelming after spending so much time in cities. A combination of amusing fellow backpackers and relaxed locals creates an atmosphere that will have you believe that this is the way life was intended to be. A generous supply of bars, cafes and small shops ensures that you will not be wondering what to do next. How could anything bad happen here…ever? Apart from getting a bamboo tattoo and some dreadlocks?

I would highly recommend renting a motorbike and exploring the island, finding look out points at sunset or just finding another spot to have that cool beer in the tropical day. Having said that, there would be absolutely no judgment if all you want to do is find a hammock and happily watch the sun turn itself into the moon.

Could you assume by now that I had a great time? Of course time went too fast, silly that. I did come back feeling rested and ready for a few more months before I feel like I’m losing my mind again. It was a short break but a full one.

In other Hanoi news, I’m back into the swing teaching and still can safely say that I love it, wondering almost how it took me this long to get here. Do not have a whole lot of classes this month seeing was the Tet holidays, basically like Christmas but with different trees. So it’s a kind intro back into the working world.

The next few events to really look forward to is moving into a house… a real house! My birthday… 15 March, make a mental note guys. Then the much anticipated visit of my sister in April. Could I possibly convey the pure excitement that I have for her arrival! Will be sending a few requests with what she will have to bring with from home. Bring me: Rooi bos tea, smarties, Afrikaans music, Mrs Balls chutney, Highveld thunderstorms, biltong, my fathers potjie kos, my mom’s cooking, the smell of a braai…

3 moths and things down that line

Staring at this blank screen, I wonder how to start this blog. Start with a joke, find an opening line that would inspire an Obama speech or simply just by saying, I don’t really know how to start this one off? Seems we will go with the later.

This is the official I have survived and thrived 3-month update. What an amazing month this has been, filled with some good ol hard work and parties… being the silly season after all. Yes I was teaching on Christmas eve as well as New Years eve, like to think it was one of those things that makes me a stronger person in the long run. (Christmas eve consisted of working till 9:30, walking home, eating instant noodles and watching American Idol reruns, however save your pity for now) Having said that I also managed a few good celebrations to make up for this injustice.

My darling students thought it a good idea to take their teacher out on the town just before Christmas and give her an experience tourists only dream about. Our first stop to the fabulous evening was a charming hot pot restaurant, where the food was good and the company even more so. (note on the food: not too sure what I was eating half the time, one of those things you just don’t think about). I was surprised to discover that my students seem to speak English better after a few drinks (hmmm a new strategy?). Inevitably, karaoke was the next logical choice… of course. I was a victim in this situation, there is only a limited choice of English songs so I was forced I tell you to sing songs like ‘Eternal Flame’ and a few others that shall not be mentioned. With a certain amount of Dutch courage running through a few of my male students blood streams they found it absolutely necessary to serenade ‘Hello’ to their at this stage much loved English teacher. Priceless.

A special mention must also go out to the two Christmas parties, good food, beautiful people and rather amusing after parties. I do feel that at certain stages I have my students days all over again (this does take the sting out of approaching the mid twenties mark).

New Years despite working till 9:30 (and being smeared with chocolate cake by my energetic students at the end of class) was a major success. Started with a stunning cocktail bar overlooking Hoan Kiem Lake, less stunning was the fact that we were kicked out at 11:45, so it was a race against the clock to get to the next place. The kind of place where the owners bribe the authorities to stay open late and you have to go in through the side door. We made it and well happy New Year from there.

I still get such an absolute kick out of being South African here, every now and then I get congratulated for coming from an interesting country. I have never before had to explain my mere existence like I have to here. Yes, I’m white, and no I’m not European, I’m African, no I don’t own a gun or a lion (okay nobody asked me about the lion… yet). There is more to South Africa than crime and Nelson Mandela… and the world cup. Yes we have panic buttons and electrical fencing. Lastly yes we are the best darn country in whole world ever!

In other news, yes, there is other news, it’s not all party party here. I am looking for a new place to stay, currently am still in a guesthouse. I am also planning for my mom to come visit in Feb, yaaaaaaaay! Hopefully also my Roomie, known to many as Christa. Looking forward to showing people around my new and happy hometown. Then lastly, I have lost a bit personality in the last few days, no Vitamin D does make for a bit of gloomy girl, the last time I was in some sunshine was Christmas day! Sunshine where art thou?